Gourmet Adventures

Istanbul Gourmet Adventure

Istanbul

May 25-31 2020

 

 

Istanbul is a fascinating city combining the opulent romance of the East with the grandeur of the Roman Byzantine empire.  Situated on a peninsula flanked by the Sea of Marmara, the Bosphorus and a safe harbour, the Golden Horn, it stands astride Europe and Asia at the only entrance to the landlocked Black Sea and has been the capital of three great empires, the Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman empires. For more than 1,500 years over a hundred emperors and sultans ruled the world from here and they have left modern Istanbul a fascinating heritage.

There is almost too much to see – the lovely Blue Mosque, magnificent Hagia Sophia, glittering Topkapi – these are names to conjure with . But this magical city also stirs the imagination and the narrow streets seem to echo with the footsteps of janissaries and crusaders. In the tiled courtyards we hear the whisper of silken girls bringing sherbet and the splashing fountains suggest the plaintive sounds of the tanbur, or lute. Come and be enchanted.

Istanbul is a feast for the senses with its vibrant colours and aromas, and this brings us to food and my feet back on the ground !  In Istanbul there is a variety of cuisine and we shall try them all – carefully researched Ottoman court, Sephardic Jewish, Armenian, Greek, Hatay province, Black Sea and Kebabs. Surrounded by sea it is inevitable that fish plays a leading role and it appears in many guises.The shopping is legendary and we will come back laden like the old camel trains !

Without leaving Istanbul we will sample food from all over Turkey, from the intriguing kebabs from the south east Hatay province to the Black Sea dishes and the incredibly varied seafood. We will eat in simple bistro-type places, historic palaces on the Bosphorous and the elegant ‘Asitane’ where they use historic recipes from Topkapi.

Culinary Secrets of the Old City

Our “Culinary Secrets of the Old City” walk takes you beyond the major monuments and into the backstreets where all of the serious eating is done. We set off through the atmospheric, lesser-explored market streets around the Egyptian Spice Market and deeper into the untouristy Fatih neighborhood. In Kantarcilar, a district that has been selling weights and measures since Ottoman times, we visit a local confectionary where Turkish delight has been made and sold for 4 generations. From there we visit all but abandoned caravansaray, a couple of hidden historic sites, an old school pudding shop, an Ottoman era bozaci and finally a full lunch of traditional pit-roasted lamb in a very local, family-run place next to the Byzantine aqueducts (with lots of other edible treats along the way). These are the quintessential culinary backstreets.

 

 

Price 2950 euros, to include 6 nights, breakfasts and main meal,  guided visits, one culinary walk and one hands-on cooking class

 

 

The Amalfi Coast and Napoli

The Amalfi Coast and Napoli

23 September – 2 October 2020

 

 

The last week in September I will be returning to Campania to revisit the Amalfi Coast and Naples. Naples and the Amalfi Coast have thrilled and enchanted visitors since the early days of Rome, when the emperors endured hours of jolting discomfort to arrive at this idyllic place -“campus felix” the happy land. I love this part of Italy and over the years I have discovered small, relatively unknown trattorias where the real local food is lovingly prepared in beautiful settings. This is where I set up my very first gourmet adventure over ten years ago.
We will spend the first few days right on the sea, relaxing, eating and cooking with the De Simone family at Lo Scoglio, one of my first discoveries many years ago, where I set up my original cooking school. We will then move on to Don Alfonso, the Michelin starred restaurant and small Relais Chateaux hotel in Sant Agata sui due Golfi. The Iaccarino family are personal friends and their special hospitality makes any stay a memorable experience. We will be cocooned in understated luxury and the food is always exciting with a lighter, new take on traditional favourites. I love this part of Italy and over the years I have discovered small, relatively unknown trattorias where the real local food is lovingly prepared in beautiful settings. We will visit Positano, Amalfi and Ravello but return to peace and sanity to sleep. We will finish our adventure in Naples to explore one of my favourite cities, and visit Pompei, Pozzuoli, Cumae, home of the enigmatic Sybil, and the Campi Flegrii, believed by the Romans to be the entrance to the underworld.

Greece Gourmet Adventure

Greece

At the end of the summer I decided to explore some new locations in Greece, and started by checking out Alexander the Great’s Macedonia in the north east. I had visited the island, Skiathos, over twentys years ago but I had never visited the mainland. Perhaps I had been put off by women being excluded from the famous Mount Athos peninsula, where Greek Orthodox monks live in isolated monasteries running down the cliff to the sea. The next peninsula, Sithonia, is a calm, green oasis which seems to have escaped the onslaught of mass tourism. When I visited at the end of August it seemed magical, with its canopies of tall trees and greenery. I had come to explore a small, family resort with spacious, shady bungalows and two immaculate quiet sandy beaches, a 90 minute taxi ride from Thesaloniki. Although it was August there were only three or four people on the beach and we strolled into the welcoming sea before even thinking of the cool white wine and tsasiki waiting a few feet away. I had found the place for my next Greek idyll.

Sithonia and Thessaloniki  September 21 – 30

We will have five days by the sea to relax like the lotus eaters, enjoying fresh fish, Greek salad and cool white wine. There are only eight small bungalows, each with private facilities, a terrace, trees, and a hammock . There is a shop on site so you you can stock your fridge with Mythos , or make tea and coffee at will. While staying here we will explore nearby small fishing towns and take a boat to swim and admire Mount Athos from the sea. After this relaxing break we will have four very full days in Thessaloniki staying at the Makedonia Palace hotel.

As soon as I saw Thessaloniki I fell in love with the city. The old Byzantine walls in Ano Poli reminded me of Istanbul, and we visited Vladaton monastery, a UNESCO World Heritage site, with its small church where St.Paul preached and wrote. We stayed in Ladadika, with its maze of small alleys where olive oil used to be stored prior to shipping. This was once the red light district, but today the buzz comes from the young, vibrant bars and eating places which come to life in the evening. To calm down we took a gentle stroll along the port, which was established around 300 B.C. It played an important role in both World Wars and its direct connections to the Balkans and central Europe make it an important trade route. Thessaloniki has become the food capital of Greece and the new twist added to long-time favourites was very exciting. We will make the most of our time here, but we will steal a day to visit Aigai (Vergina) where Philip of Macedon’s palace treasures and burial site were discovered in the seventies. It is about an hour’s drive away so we will have a chance to explore the rugged Macedonian landscape.

Price 3150 euros to include accommodation, local private transport and guides, breakfasts and daily main meal.